Renewal in the Black Hills

I had planned a two week trip to make photographs in northwest Wyoming. All the arrangements were made and I kissed my wife goodbye. The vehicles were packed and all I had to do was fuel the truck. Normally when heading to this part of the state I travel through Laramie and then up north through Lander, Thermopolis, Cody and on to the Clarks Fork country, but for some reason I headed to Cheyenne for my first stop. That kind of obligated me to a different route up through Casper, but I made a very unusual decision when arriving in Douglas – I took off towards Gillette knowing I was going to visit Devils Tower after a several year hiatus from this wonderful area of Wyoming.

It was early October of 2007. It had been a very warm summer and fall arrived later than normal. I didn't have much expectation that the colors would be changing at this much lower elevation, but off I headed anyway. As I neared Gillette, I passed areas like Pumpkin Buttes, an area that I had photographed from the air. My heart started to quicken its beat as I reacquainted myself with these places that held special places in my memories. I stopped to refuel in Gillette and treat myself to a lunch at Long John Silvers. I enjoyed an A&W Root beer and planned what I wanted to do when I got to my destination. I had given no thought to even coming this way, but I was excited to see the Devils Tower again.

When I got to a place to where I first saw Devils Tower from a distance, I knew that I was where I was meant to be. It was quietly exhilarating. I didn't know what to expect but I knew I was to be here. I picked a campsite in the Devils Tower campground, then gathered my equipment for my first trip out to take a look around. It was much more relaxing than most of my planned excursions. I normally have lots that I want to accomplish and I'm usually wired to make images – not here, not yet.

I spent the afternoon driving around the area scouting out locations that might produce great images in better light. There were some areas that I had not explored before that I wanted to see. This was sounding more like a vacation than work, but off I went anyway. For the next day and a half I visited some new places like The Black Hills National Forest on dirt roads between Hulett and Alva and Aladdin, then I made my way to the Vore Buffalo jump site south of Aladdin. Since the Bison is so very important to me, the history of this site was a special attraction. I made a wonderful drive one afternoon north from Hulett up to Alzada on the Montana/Wyoming border, then on the way back took a detour through New Haven down to Oshoto. There I discovered places I had never seen before and found a location with one of the most spectacular views I could ever imagine, looking out through vast areas to the west and the Bighorn Mountains in the far distance. No other state in the union short of Alaska could produce such uncluttered, unspoiled vistas. I was so psyched. This was absolutely magnificent country and new I wanted to photograph it. Just east of Oshoto I made a very special panorama image of scenery typical of the Black Hills, now I was getting into the swing of things.

It was late in the afternoon and I headed back to Devils Tower. I always kept that place in mind for early morning and late evening images. Now I had some focus. It took two days of mind clearing to get to this point, but I knew what I wanted. Usually I work in a frenzy trying to make the best use of my time, but this time the work was at a more controlled and focused level – that was new! It was great and all the while I was making images that had some special meaning to me.

Well, as it turned out, I spent three days in the Black Hills. The last day was extraordinary. The light had been somewhat flat and 'ordinary' for the first couple of days but my final evening prepared me for the rest of my two week trip. I was in the Joyner Ridge area to the northwest of Devils Tower. I made many great images including a large panorama that will have a special place in our home. I walked all around the area looking for something new in the wonderful late afternoon light, keeping a close eye on what was happening with the Tower. I saw it happening - something that I've witnessed many times before. Magic light, great skies and perfect conditions were unfolding. I didn't have much time, but picked a lens that I felt would be a good choice, put the camera on the tripod, shouldered the entire rig and took off cross country at a hurried pace. I wasn't in great shape, but I felt new energy pumping into my legs and lungs as I hurried up the hill to a place where I could frame the Tower as I had envisioned. I found my place, set up the camera and started making images. I photographed Devils Tower for several minutes until the light was gone, then just sat down for awhile to enjoy the quiet solitude in the presence of this stately monolith. It was a perfect ending to the wonderful day. I was refreshed and revitalized. I walked the ¾ mile back to my vehicle in the twilight shadows of Devils Tower, then returned to my campsite in quiet reflection of all I had experienced.

The next day before packing my rig, I stopped at the visitor center at the base of Devils Tower, and went in to spend some time reading what others had experienced when they visited this magic place. I was struck by something written by a native American. Here is what it said.

"If a man was starving, he was poor in spirit and in body, he went to the Black Hills. The next spring he would come out, his life and body would be renewed. So, to our grandfather, the Black Hills was the center of life, and those areas all around it were considered sacred, and were kept in the light of reverence."

I didn't spend an entire season in the Black Hills, but found refreshment and a new vision for the things I would experience in my work. The native Americans believed this was sacred country that gave them new life. It is indeed a magical and wonderful part of Wyoming. It is a place where I was able to reconnect with the Creator of the Black Hills. I came away with new vision and focus, and the 10 days to follow gave me opportunity to produce some of the best work I've done in a long time. I did get to my originally planned location in northwest Wyoming, but via a different route. That detour opened my eyes to the wonders of serendipity. God was good to me on that trip and I found my much needed renewal in the Black Hills of Wyoming.